[Red_October]

I have recently purchased a '90 Sierra. Going through the receipts and service history, it seems the car has a history of wheel bearings (front and rear) being replaced and/or repacked every 6 months or so. I take it that this is not normal and there may be an underlying issue here. What could be the cause? I'd prefer to get the issue addressed rather than temporarily fixed which would appear what has been done.

(standard 1.3, 30" M/T, 2" lift, 2" body lift)

Cheers,
Jimmy

[Reubs]

Cause could be driving in lots of mud and water...

[Scrawny]

How may times have they actually been replaced? Repacking them is just good maintenance. Replacing them often is a different story. As Reubs said, water and mud ingestion will quickly kill a bearing.

[Red_October]

It seems that every 6 months, 2 of the bearings have been replaced and the other two repacked. One of the rears is just starting to go now so I might replace the lot and see how I go.

So that I cover all bases, if it wasn't mud and water, what else could be the cause? Something bent, worn or skew-wiff?

[Scrawny]

Depending on who you talk to, big offset rims could be a cause (I haven't had a problem with mine). Jumping the car could damage them depending on the impact. Incorrect seal fitment could allow dust and dirt to get in.

[smileysmoke]

could bent diff housings cause it?
i have big offset rims and no issues with my wheel bearings yet 12mnths on

[want33s]

If it needs a set of bearings every six months I'd be getting the diff housings checked for straightness. Any wheel alignment place should be able to put the car up backwards and check rear camber.

[weaves]

when i did my wheel bearings a couple of weeks back, i noticed the surface my seal runs on one side only was extremely pitted and grooved. This side was full of mud/dirt/grass seeds. This could be a part of the reason yours are failing.

If have the ability/tools to do so take them out yourself and have a look at and note down a few things *colour of grease *marks on raceways *cage condition *check for burns or obvious heating *condition of seal *condition of sealing surface.

things like your seal lips being torn up, with mud filled grease and bearings would point to a sealing problem.

bluing of the raceway would indicate incorrect tourque loads and or lace of grease.

if you find other marks on the raceways or OD or ID damage i can usually tell you why that happened.

weaves.

[kenn]

Maybe , cheap bearings or not a good mechanic or both

[31zook]

for a leafy i go 85nm on (spin a couple of loops) 1/4 turn off then 10-15nm on... after 50kms there not even luke warm and have no movement... i can run my 31s with a bit of offset for yonks with this before one dies but im thinking they all dies due to mud and dirt lol

I run the bearings weaves sells btw.. very good quality

[shep]

kenn wrote:

Maybe , cheap bearings or not a good mechanic or both

my first thought was Chinese bearings.

[Red_October]

I'll take them out and have a look for any of the trouble signs you have suggested weaves. I'll also get the diff housings checked for straightness. Where would I be able to pick up a set of quality bearings? Are the bearings sourced by Repco any good? (I can get trade price)

[kenn]

You want Koyo,Timken,SKF or try genuine(which i thin are Koyo's)

[weaves]

anything jap. SKF, FAG, NTN, NACHI, KOYO, FBJ, MAXWELL,

MAXWELL aren't seem much here, they are jap and i've never had a problem with them. The packaging is entirely in japanese, i sell heaps of these in my wheel bearing kits and all are great quality.

I'd be surprised if anyone gets chinese ones of these, the jap stuff is so cheap anyway.

But if you want the highest quality, highest quality SKF, FAG, TIMKEN, anything European

weaves