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Joe

I live here!
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 49041 Location: Rockingham W.A
Vehicle: JB74
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:39 am |
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Suzistore is closed till the 4th, did ya try Suzukishop?
_________________ Joe likes boobs ( . )( . ) ( ° )( ° )
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:47 am |
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like i said - talk to my mate, he'll give you the stongest grade he has =)
_________________ 
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shandy92

az supporter
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 5066 Location: perth, Australia
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:49 am |
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alien wrote: like i said - talk to my mate, he'll give you the stongest grade he has =)
ok, i will. but without seeing it, will he be-able to tell me what i need? thats why i range suzistore, to try and find out if it a "special" bolt or if i can use anything.
yeh ill give them a call, its after 5 so ill try tomorrow.
cheers
Mitch
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:13 am |
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he'll ask for length, dia and thread... thats why i thought if you can park in his carpark, take the bolt out and walk in with it, you're guaranteed to get the right one - and you can fit it before you leave =)
_________________ 
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shandy92

az supporter
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 5066 Location: perth, Australia
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:19 am |
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alien wrote: he'll ask for length, dia and thread... thats why i thought if you can park in his carpark, take the bolt out and walk in with it, you're guaranteed to get the right one - and you can fit it before you leave =)
yeah thats what i was expecting, but if i can find out those things b4 i go into the store then it would be even better.
its also kind of a two man job, as when u try and tighten/loosen the bolt it turns the shaft. so someone needs to hold the wheel so it doesnt turn.
thanks tho.
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steak_knife

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:20 am |
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Take the key out of the ing & the steering lock will activate, &, lock..
_________________ I used to be indecisive,
now I'm not so sure.....
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shandy92

az supporter
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 5066 Location: perth, Australia
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:21 am |
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steak_knife wrote: Take the key out of the ing & the steering lock will activate, &, lock..
ahah thats awesome, but it may stop in a bad possition and make it harder to get to. thanks tho, i hadnt thought about that.
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LAY80N
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 455 Location: Newcastle NSW
Vehicle: I drive your mum
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:57 am |
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shandy92 wrote: steak_knife wrote: Take the key out of the ing & the steering lock will activate, &, lock.. ahah thats awesome, but it may stop in a bad possition and make it harder to get to. thanks tho, i hadnt thought about that.
Well stick the key in, turn the wheel and lock it again so its stops in a better position. Seriously
Layto....
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TZAR

az supporter
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 3461 Location: licking some windows
Vehicle: LJ20 LJ50
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:47 am |
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shandy92 wrote: alien wrote: he'll ask for length, dia and thread... thats why i thought if you can park in his carpark, take the bolt out and walk in with it, you're guaranteed to get the right one - and you can fit it before you leave =) yeah thats what i was expecting, but if i can find out those things b4 i go into the store then it would be even better. its also kind of a two man job, as when u try and tighten/loosen the bolt it turns the shaft. so someone needs to hold the wheel so it doesnt turn. thanks tho.
Take the bolt out and measure it. OR puts pics of it one here with a ruler ( good one with mm on it) next to it. If it has a 12/13 mm head normally is a M8 if it has a 10mm head its a M6 and if it has a 14/15/17 mm head normally is a M12. then you need thread pitch. thats the distance between each thred. M6 should be 1.0 M8 should be 1.25 and M12 should be 1.25 or could be 1.5 mm.
OR take some metyric bolts to super shit (cheap) and go to there bolt merchandiser diplay and try your spare bolts in the merchandiser and work out what they are. mark them so you can identify them later. Then go home and try bolts what you know are certain threads GENTLY in the hole and make sure they screw in BY HAND. When you find the right thread count and size go to bolt shop and buy one for $15.00 minimum charge OR see old mates mate and get one for free by doing it in the carpark
_________________ Camels have nice toes
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shandy92

az supporter
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 5066 Location: perth, Australia
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:57 am |
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TZAR wrote: shandy92 wrote: alien wrote: he'll ask for length, dia and thread... thats why i thought if you can park in his carpark, take the bolt out and walk in with it, you're guaranteed to get the right one - and you can fit it before you leave =) yeah thats what i was expecting, but if i can find out those things b4 i go into the store then it would be even better. its also kind of a two man job, as when u try and tighten/loosen the bolt it turns the shaft. so someone needs to hold the wheel so it doesnt turn. thanks tho. Take the bolt out and measure it. OR puts pics of it one here with a ruler ( good one with mm on it) next to it. If it has a 12/13 mm head normally is a M8 if it has a 10mm head its a M6 and if it has a 14/15/17 mm head normally is a M12. then you need thread pitch. thats the distance between each thred. M6 should be 1.0 M8 should be 1.25 and M12 should be 1.25 or could be 1.5 mm.
thanks, all i need now is a rough length which is around 30mm. ill try get one of these from somewhere, what i could do is removed the bolt at the firewall and use that!
cheers
Mitch
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shandy92

az supporter
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 5066 Location: perth, Australia
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 Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:01 am |
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well ended up getting a new bolt so thats all sorted
all i have to do now is get the steering wheel back to being straight, was planning on just taking it off and refitting it straight. will this work? and will i have any issue with the indicator returners thing?(tabs that turn the indicator off) if those tabs are on the shaft, and i move the wheel so its straight, will the little tabs stay at the angle or are they on the wheel?
cheers
Mitch
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:22 am |
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theyre separate to the steering column dude, just take it off, reposition and tighten it back up.
_________________ 
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shandy92

az supporter
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 5066 Location: perth, Australia
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 Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:29 am |
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alien wrote: theyre separate to the steering column dude, just take it off, reposition and tighten it back up.
oh awesome, sounds good. will have a go in the morning when its light
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swifty_ano
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:17 am Posts: 1664 Location: Brisbane, QLD
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 Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 9:34 am |
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So did you just take it off and re fit it straight?
My steering wheel is a about 15 degrees counter clockwise off straight. Nothing seems bent.
Assuming wheel alignment is off as it pulls left occasionally when braking. (Checked brakes and wheel bearings already)
Was yours the same?
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shandy92

az supporter
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 5066 Location: perth, Australia
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 Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 1:48 pm |
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ahaha neither, its still on the piss. i tried taking it off but failed, will have another go this w.e but i have actually gotten use to driving it like it is. yeah mine is on the 45 to the left....anti clockwise.
when my lift gets put in, ill be getting an alignment then.
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