[dp87]

hey guys im trying to get the crank pulley bolt off. it just wont budge. ive tried to lock a breaker bar in place and turn the motor over but that didnt do much. how do u get it off?

[dp87]

ps. its a coily

[bails]

you need to put some heat on it, using a blow torch or something similar. it will make it a lot easier to get off.

[Ben_Sierra]

Put a breaker bar on there in such a place that it will hit something solid when the motor spins.

Disconect the lead from the dizzy to the coil so she won't start, then jump in and turn the key...

[hooki]

Ben_Sierra wrote:

Put a breaker bar on there in such a place that it will hit something solid when the motor spins.

Disconect the lead from the dizzy to the coil so she won't start, then jump in and turn the key...

wont that damage the starter?

[Ben_Sierra]

Just give it a quick hit, don't keep turning it....

Impact is the best way to remove stubborn nuts and bolts...

[dp87]

i tried to start the motor with the breaker bar on already. the starter didnt have enough power to loosen it. might have to wait till next week when i go back to work and can bring home a blow torch

[ellis]

there are 5 bolt's to remove the pully on my coily and the big on doe's not hold the pully

[Ben_Sierra]

ellis wrote:

there are 5 bolt's to remove the pully on my coily and the big on doe's not hold the pully

Good point... Only 4 bolts I think on my WT, but yeah, the big bolt doesn't need to come off to get the pulley off...

Forgot that

[alex]

ellis wrote:

there are 5 bolt's to remove the pully on my coily and the big on doe's not hold the pully

x2

[droversdog]

Hi,
If its an early 1 liter motor a rattlegun will do the job. If its never been removed before it will be tight as. The bigger newer motors I haven't had any experience with.
Russ

[steak_knife]

dp87 wrote:

i tried to start the motor with the breaker bar on already. the starter didnt have enough power to loosen it. might have to wait till next week when i go back to work and can bring home a blow torch

let the bar have a bit of swing on the starter but don't be standing to close. heating should be the last resort..

[kuta]

hey I know this is a old add but after the same help well kinda. I have a g16a with leaking crank seal I want to fix but for the life of me I can not get the pully off it has 5 bolts and I can not find a pully tool that will line up. I have made my own (no good) little heat (no good ) list go's on help me please and thanks

[Goldnomad]

To remove confusion.

If you only need to remove the belt pulley it is held on with 5 x M6 bolts



If you need to remove the crankshaft pulley make sure you line up the timing marks first

[royce]

kuta wrote:

hey I know this is a old add but after the same help well kinda. I have a g16a with leaking crank seal I want to fix but for the life of me I can not get the pully off it has 5 bolts and I can not find a pully tool that will line up. I have made my own (no good) little heat (no good ) list go's on help me please and thanks

If you are down to the point that everything is off and you are just staring at a pulley, bolt the fanbelt pulley back on to it and use it to wiggle side to side to get it to slide off.

[fordem]

^^^ That doesn't always work.

Put the center bolt back, leave it a couple of turns loose and then bolt a piece of scrap flat bar stock across two of the holes and use that to pull it off - center of the bar stock bears against the center bolt whilst you tighten down the two outer bolts.

[Marko_SJ]

fordem wrote:

^^^ That doesn't always work.

Put the center bolt back, leave it a couple of turns loose and then bolt a piece of scrap flat bar stock across two of the holes and use that to pull it off - center of the bar stock bears against the center bolt whilst you tighten down the two outer bolts.

True.

[kuta]

need to do crank seal so need crankshaft timing pulley off. it will not wiggle off it is a reco engine and starting to think it is loctited on or something. I made a pulley tool out of 5ml flat steel with 5 holes to bolt on to pulley and a nut welded to the centre with a big bolt to tighten on to the loose centre bolt . it just pulled the 5 bolts thru 5 ml. ill try Put the center bolt back, leave it a couple of turns loose and then bolt a piece of scrap flat bar stock across two of the holes and use that to pull it off - center of the bar stock bears against the center bolt whilst you tighten down the two outer bolts.

[Goldnomad]

Use at least grade 8.8 bolts instead of the ones in the pulley

[kuta]

ok so got flat steel drilled 3 holes bolted all up over wound out centre bolt still no luck just bending the flat steel????
any other ideas? really want seal fixed

[kuta]

yar nothing less then 8.8 when eva I replace or use bolts even have 8.8's holding on timing cover

[Goldnomad]

Get a 12 to 20mm thick piece of steel. One with some guts to it. Spray the back of the pulley with WD40 and leave for a day. Tap it lightly with a hammer all round.

[kuta]

got the shits with it all back together. it can keep leaking for now. ill try and get some 20mm when I do ill try again might try and find a new pulley to just incase the 20mm don't work and ill cut the bloody thing off. thanks for all ya help every one ill post it up when I get it off and let ya know how I got it off.

[Goldnomad]

Ok. Here's a hint for when you do get it off. I have used this and swear by it.

there's no guarantee that a new seal will stop an oil leak but this will.

A "Speedy Sleeve". They're about $35 from any bearing shop

Have a look at this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09LiVbqL6ss

[kuta]

cool thanks I like the look of that. would of never looked for something like that. ill get one of them befor my next attempt to fix it to.

[Goldnomad]

Whoops!!!

I forgot to tell you to take your new seal with you so they can give you the correct Speedy Sleeve

[kuta]

do the sleeve come with tool to fit them. if not how do you fit them? im guessing they are a super tight fit.