[mr.green]

Highway-Star wrote:

By the looks of it, the pump runs off of a sprocket on the crankshaft, not one in the timing case. I can't see any sign of anything else using it...

yep had a quick look at it today. it has its own sprocket on the crank between the first main and number 1 con rod.

[Damo]

Fatzook wrote:

cool. So lookating at that diagram it would be easy to just remove the oil pump and chain.

Dry sump Pete? That was the first thing I thought of when I saw your clearance issue.

[Fatzook]

Damo wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

cool. So lookating at that diagram it would be easy to just remove the oil pump and chain.

Dry sump Pete? That was the first thing I thought of when I saw your clearance issue.

Too expensive. I have found a couple of 12V scavenge pumps that I may be able to use in conjunction with a remote filter and filter block, oil cooler and some5/8" braided line and a garbage bag ful of AN- fittings, but it all hinges around the claimed performance of the oil pump.

Spur Gear Oil Feed and Scavenge Pump
Max rated constant pressure feed 40 PSI
Max flow 3gallons/minute ( ~11L/min)

I've emaied the manufacturer to attain its suitability to total engine oil supply.

I have no need to delete the sump, just the front 100mm or so would be ideal. The bowl and oil pickup can stay.

[remydog05]

I had a go at putting the steering back in today and it slid in with about 20mm clearance.
I also found out I can almost screw the heater tap back into the orignal holes, I will just have to dremel the corner of the heater tap mount out by about 3-4mm. Will get pics of both, I forgot my camera today .

I also took the engine fan off and the AC pump and bracket that I dont need and ended up with about 80mm more room for the radiator. If I still want more we could turn down the crank pulley because the front is only used to run the ac. (Im using an external compressor)

Anyone know a part number for the belt used with no AC???

Wont be using the vit radiator that I was going too because its plastic tanks and I need the outlets changed to the other side.
So choices are
1/ Use a 1.3 stock rad recored with a auto cooler in the bottom aprox $400-450
2/ Buy a 2.0L one from lowrange and run an external cooler aprox $350 landed
3/ mount the J20a one I have and buy a new one if needed for $280

So Im leaning towards using the J20a for $ but it will be a bit harder to mount, as the 1.3 recored and 2.0L lowrange options bolt in with stock mounts!
I also would plan on using a pull thermo on all of these options.

Anyone have any opinion on any of these options?

[atari4x4]

remydog05 wrote:

Anyone know a part number for the belt used with no AC???

5pk1550

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=19590

[remydog05]

Cheers mate

[Fatzook]

so you reckon you can squeeze a j20 core in?

[royce]

Fatzook wrote:

Damo wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

cool. So lookating at that diagram it would be easy to just remove the oil pump and chain.

Dry sump Pete? That was the first thing I thought of when I saw your clearance issue.

Too expensive. I have found a couple of 12V scavenge pumps that I may be able to use in conjunction with a remote filter and filter block, oil cooler and some5/8" braided line and a garbage bag ful of AN- fittings, but it all hinges around the claimed performance of the oil pump.

Spur Gear Oil Feed and Scavenge Pump
Max rated constant pressure feed 40 PSI
Max flow 3gallons/minute ( ~11L/min)

I've emaied the manufacturer to attain its suitability to total engine oil supply.

I have no need to delete the sump, just the front 100mm or so would be ideal. The bowl and oil pickup can stay.

Power steer pump mounted low feeding back into the block

for that matter whats stopping you putting the stock pump out the side? Relying on something 12v and only 40psi is going to end in tears one day I reckon

[boostedbrick]

royce wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Damo wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

cool. So lookating at that diagram it would be easy to just remove the oil pump and chain.

Dry sump Pete? That was the first thing I thought of when I saw your clearance issue.

Too expensive. I have found a couple of 12V scavenge pumps that I may be able to use in conjunction with a remote filter and filter block, oil cooler and some5/8" braided line and a garbage bag ful of AN- fittings, but it all hinges around the claimed performance of the oil pump.

Spur Gear Oil Feed and Scavenge Pump
Max rated constant pressure feed 40 PSI
Max flow 3gallons/minute ( ~11L/min)

I've emaied the manufacturer to attain its suitability to total engine oil supply.

I have no need to delete the sump, just the front 100mm or so would be ideal. The bowl and oil pickup can stay.

Power steer pump mounted low feeding back into the block
for that matter whats stopping you putting the stock pump out the side? Relying on something 12v and only 40psi is going to end in tears one day I reckon

Expand on that, MR2's use an electric power steer pump. The same type i plan on useing for my power steer.. Could work very well in this situation i guess. They can be set up to pump at different flow rates with the right controller(my brothers going to build one for me)..

-power draw mite be an issue, depends on what a J20 alt can put out

[Damo]

Why root around with a unproven solution, when oiling your engine is so critical?

[Fatzook]

Damo wrote:

Why root around with a unproven solution, when oiling your engine is so critical?

Find me a soluton short of dry sump.

I've spent 15 hrs on the net now trying to figure out a way to replace the mechanical pump with something else that doesn't involve a scavenge pump, remote resevoirs, oil air separators, custom sumps and all the other shit that makes drysump a viable option for race funded teams only.

I had not considered using a power steer pump as an oil pump, but I guess thats what it is anyway. Controlling flow/ pressure would be the biggest issue with this setup though.

I'm going to try a funny shaped Panhard first, and if that fails I will be looking toward the electric oil delivery or converting a P/S pump.

[royce]

pressure relief is taken care of in teh block on a G series, assume they would be the same

can you hang the stock pump off the side of the engine at roughly the same height, modded to feed in and out and belt fed?

[Fatzook]

royce wrote:

pressure relief is taken care of in teh block on a G series, assume they would be the same

can you hang the stock pump off the side of the engine at roughly the same height, modded to feed in and out and belt fed?

Yep. Heaps of room. I'll steel the spare P/S pump off cammo ( have 2) and see how it looks.

[steak_knife]

[quote="royce"]pressure relief is taken care of in teh block on a G series, assume they would be the same

can you hang the stock pump off the side of the engine at roughly the same height, modded to feed in and out and belt fed?[/quote]

I think it's in the pump of the J....

[mr.green]

hey fat, where have you mounted your panhard? i'm also using one but i have it mounted in front of the lh coil and angle out to just under the steering box. only got a dummy mount made up at the chassis end but can't see any problems and your motor is mounted back further than mine...
surely moving the panhard is a better idea than moving the pump???

[remydog05]

Fatzook wrote:

so you reckon you can squeeze a j20 core in?

I did a brief dummy fit yesterday and it will go in no probs, just have to make new brackets. OR get a 1.3 converted to 3 core or the traitough 2.0L alloy unit and use either of them and then its bolt im simple.

Still undecided but Ive got other stuff to do anyway for a while.

[Fatzook]

mr.green wrote:

hey fat, where have you mounted your panhard? i'm also using one but i have it mounted in front of the lh coil and angle out to just under the steering box. only got a dummy mount made up at the chassis end but can't see any problems and your motor is mounted back further than mine...
surely moving the panhard is a better idea than moving the pump???

I currently have my panhard mounted 40mm above and 30mm infront of the axle on the passengers side. The bar then rises at about 5degrees towards a mount that is 25mm outside of the rail and 40mm under on the drivers side. These are just dummy brackets. My panhard is atleaset 50mm behind the front edge of the sump, and I fear moving it forward away from the diff anymore will have an adverse effect on its performance.

I will have a crack at mking a new panhard that bends in such a way as to clear the sump. My eye tells me its possible, but reallity may prove otherwise. I'll get some pics of my setup on thursday when I get back into it.

[tanshi]

looking forward to seeing the out comes, i considered a coil swap in the future and this will help alot

[remydog05]

heater tap info RE J20a and J20a MC & Booster

I had to take out more than I first thought but its ok.


IT Fits!


It also hits the side of the battery tray so I will need to massage this a little when I have the front clip off again. AS far as I can see it wont hit the battery when its in there.


Tanshi I havent adjusted the booster rod at all yet, do I need to let it out longer to meet up with the sierra pedal?

Crossmember nearly done and then onto the radiator mounts. Also go to finish the tunnel/floor and adjust the top of the tunnel to mount the Tbar on.

Are you blokes going to engineer yours in QLD?? I thought you were not allowed to go over 1.6??

[tanshi]

i had to adjust the rod inside the booster thatt mates up with the master cyl. i believe i had to shorten it, about 4 mm

yeah my is getting engineered. we can goto 1.6 without any other mods.

to go higher we need to upgrade suspension and brakes. ( they class it as safety upgrades.) in QLD we can goto around 2.7 in a sierra with safety upgrades.

[tanshi]

update!, refitted the transfer, tail shafts. finished up the powersteer,

Fitted a dodgy temporary exhaust
And then took it for a lap.

oh my GOD! im going to have to alter my gearing a little as currently i have 4.9 transfer gears, 3.9 diff gears, the pick up is blistering!

car still feels nicly balanced so the extra weight hasnt hurt it. still brakes nicly too.

i have a cooling issue with i will look into tommorrow but for now i am going to have a beer and try and stop my heart from pounding.

[steak_knife]

can I drive???

[tanshi]

i'll give you a crack once we iron out the bugs

[Fatzook]

tanshi wrote:

i'll give you a crack once we iron out the bugs

I'll take a joy ride too please

And what do you mean by 'sort out the gearing'? Whats the plan?

[tanshi]

i pulled away from a round about earlier smoking the wheels in 4th gear.

im thinking my gearing as it stands is too low!

im thinking 4.1 transfers and going back to 3.7 diffs

[Fatzook]

What size tyres?

I'll have 33's, 4.6's & 6.5's. Too low?

[tanshi]

i only have 31s
i would think your gearing is gonna be really low too.

it wont be awful, i could probably drive mine as it is, but it is very snarly. it will be very hard to drive gently

[Highway-Star]

Tanshi wrote:

im thinking my gearing as it stands is too low!

Told you it would be

J20 should be doing just over 3 grand at 100 in 5th (going by the car they came from). A WT Sierra with stocko case and 3.7 diffs is correctly geared in high range with 31's!!!

If I was to put one in my LJ81 (which I have stupidly been tossing up), I'd run a standard 1.3 Sierra TC, and 4.1 diffs (highest I can put in LJ diffs). Short of the possibility of diff centres turning into grenades, it would likely be OK.

[tanshi]

fun though!!!

[Fatzook]

Well I have a 5.14 case here also. I want to stick with the 4.6 diffs so that my SV-hybrid rear diff can still be done, as it is a 4.6 ratio also.