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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:49 pm 
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i did mean cv! :oops:

The splines on it axel that have been in the cv are hardly there! the axel diffinatly hasnt broken! and all the ball bearings are still in the cv just its cracked 3 times...

Any way its shagged got more comin! 8)

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:08 pm 
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That's a normal result of the axle jumping splines once the cage breaks. It's why it's normally impossible to salvage the inner axle.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:44 pm 
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AH fair enough then! i knew nothin about cv's....hadent even ripped one out before!haha here are some pics anyway!

Image
Image

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:08 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
alien wrote:
you could run WT diffs and different offset rims dude =)


^^^ This.

Much better outcome. Less scrub radius, happier bearings, more parts support.

Steve.


It would, however it would mean:

- new rims, + swapping tyres over (and trying to fit a 10.5 inch wide tyre on a narrow rim, and finding one that has little backspacing)
- buying wt diffs
- buying cromos
- re engineering
- fab work to fit wt diffs


Which would put it at around the 2grand mark. Which to me is not worth it, seeing as I havent broken anything in 7 years of owning suzukis. This may be down to our Tassie conditions, or more likely my driving style.

If...I had a WT sierra, it would most likely be on the cards. I am however more worried about snapping a rear axle than a front CV.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:04 am 
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Chromos from them too, probably only WT though

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31zook wrote:
Makes me want something similar

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:09 am 
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I have never broken the star of the CV. Only ever the cage and outer shell.

I am now running trialjimny axles and CV's sourced through Suzisport. At $145each CV, thats not a major blow. The trialjimny CV's were pretty crap and WAY overpriced in my opinion. I also have 15mm FWH spacers.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:41 am 
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Brenno wrote:
It would, however it would mean:

- new rims, NO!
- buying wt diffs Of course
- buying cromos Yes
- re engineering Really?
- fab work to fit wt diffs Yes



Really it is four spring perches and getting your current rims offset changed on top of the price of WT diffs. Hardly a show stopper.

If you haven't broken anything though that's cool there's no need for the upgrade, but you are stepping up to 34's, no? The reduced scrub radius WT diffs allow (and how much easier this therefore makes tyre fitment) alone would make me look at it pretty hard at WT's, even if only for the front.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:45 am 
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yes :helloo:

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:08 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
yes :helloo:

I agree.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:17 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
yes :helloo:

I agree.


Us to..... :helloo:

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:51 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
SierraDan wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
yes :helloo:

I agree.


Us to..... :helloo:
yess!!

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 1:11 am 
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Just thinking, are the shaft lengths the only difference between NT and WT?

Would it be possible to extend the splines and lop off enough shaft so they are NT dimensions?

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 1:17 am 
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yeah shaft lengths are the only difference.

not sure about lengthening the splines and shortening the shafts though.

We run the chromos CVs with custom hytuff shafts in them in our LJs.

Custom shafts would be a much better way to go i think

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:09 am 
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X2 - custom inners are the way to go.

There's a couple of issues with shortening/resplining.

Well designed axles are the same OD at the base of the spline as the OD of the axle.

Like this:

Image

(Most obvious on the one on the right)

It's not actually possible to shorten this axle as there is no material there to cut a spline in. I call these axles "well designed" as they [i]shouldn't[/] be able to twist a spline - the spline is stronger than the "plain" shaft, so the shaft will twist before the spline.

However, early DT's (and maybe some current suppliers) were the same diameter as the inner axle seal from end to end, and the splines were cut in. These could, theoretically, be shortened.

However, cutting splines in the hard state (after heat treatment) is inadvisable - it's hard on the tooling, but also, you are cutting through the surface hardening, so it's likely the spline will wear quickly. Good practice would be to anneal the shaft, cut and spline it, then re heat treat it.

Which makes it cheaper to start from scratch really.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 12:21 pm 
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Thanks for the info Steve, I knew there must have been a good reason!

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:30 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
SierraDan wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
yes :helloo:

I agree.


Us to..... :helloo:
yess!!


Oh yeah!!! 8)

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