[scorpydude]

Changing flywheel as a while back a bolt broke off and had to drill+easyout to get it out.

Obtained a second hand flywheel. Going to get the spare flywheel machined by the machine shop.

Some questions

1. While the gearbox, clutch and flywheel are out is there anything else I should do while they are out? Is there a oil seal behind the flywheel or anything?

2. Is a clutch something that an amateur should replace themselves? (Is there any calibration that needs doing or is it all bolt on)

3. IIRC to take the flywheel off you need to remove a massive nut don't you? Is this nut likely to be as tight as the flange nuts on a 30 year old transfer case? Any tips?

Cheers

[matfan]

scorpydude wrote:

1. While the gearbox, clutch and flywheel are out is there anything else I should do while they are out? Is there a oil seal behind the flywheel or anything? Yep Rear Main Seal

2. Is a clutch something that an amateur should replace themselves? (Is there any calibration that needs doing or is it all bolt on) It's not all that hard and it's a good experience for an amateur (being one myself I should know )

3. IIRC to take the flywheel off you need to remove a massive nut don't you? Is this nut likely to be as tight as the flange nuts on a 30 year old transfer case? Any tips? Not one massive nut, lots of normal sized nuts. A rattle gun will come in handy here. Saying that, I did my last one at night and I didn't want to piss off the neighbours with the compressor so I did it with hand tools.

[want33s]

Remove gearbox. [10 & 12mm sockets, 14 & 17mm spanners.]
Remove clutch and pressure plate. [12mm socket.]
Remove flywheel. [17mm socket]
Remove rear main seal housing. [10mm socket]
Replace rear main seal.
Refit rear seal housing.
Remove spigot bearing in flywheel.
Replace spigot bearing. (a lot easier with flywheel on bench than in car)
Refit flywheel.
Refit clutch and pressure plate.
Grease the throwout snout on the front of the gearbox. The bit the bearing slides on. Replace the bearing if it feels notchy.
Refit gearbox...

[scorpydude]

Thanks guys!! Just what I was after.

[303zuke]

want33s wrote:

Remove rear main seal housing. [10mm socket]
Replace rear main seal.
Refit rear seal housing.

Forgot this bit first:

Drain engine oil.
Remove sump and gasket.

And then this after:
Trim rear seal housing gasket flush with block, seal with RTV Silastic.
Re-install sump with new gasket.
Fill with oil.

[want33s]

303zuke wrote:

want33s wrote:

Remove rear main seal housing. [10mm socket]
Replace rear main seal.
Refit rear seal housing.

Forgot this bit first:

Drain engine oil.
Remove sump and gasket.

And then this after:
Trim rear seal housing gasket flush with block, seal with RTV Silastic.
Re-install sump with new gasket.
Fill with oil.

Nah... just park it facing downhill.....

[christover1]

I would replace the clips that hold the thrust bearing on the gear box.
On a 1.0 litre, these are a common failure, needing gear box out to fix.
Probably wise to do get a new thrust bearing, too.

[scorpydude]

303zuke wrote:

And then this after:
Trim rear seal housing gasket flush with block, seal with RTV Silastic.

Thanks.

I've never actually seen behind a flywheel before. Can you please explain the reason for this step a little more?

Are you just saying it's worth replacing the seal housing gasket while I replace the seal? And that the seal housing gasket will need to be trimmed a little from within the area that the sump covers?

christover1 wrote:

I would replace the clips that hold the thrust bearing on the gear box.
On a 1.0 litre, these are a common failure, needing gear box out to fix.
Probably wise to do get a new thrust bearing, too.

Ah, good idea. Thanks. Will do.

[303zuke]

scorpydude wrote:

303zuke wrote:

And then this after:
Trim rear seal housing gasket flush with block, seal with RTV Silastic.

Thanks.

I've never actually seen behind a flywheel before. Can you please explain the reason for this step a little more?

Are you just saying it's worth replacing the seal housing gasket while I replace the seal? And that the seal housing gasket will need to be trimmed a little from within the area that the sump covers?

YES

The gasket surface for the oil seal housing to the block, and the sump to the block are at right angles to each other. 2 Gaskets like this cannot provide an oil-tight seal, so a bit of silicon is required. The 1.3 dodged this problem by using silicon to replace the whole sump gasket.

The oil pump at the front of the block is also the same arrangement, but you shouldn't be disturbing that.

Here's the bit from the manual:

[ridzilla]

Do you have a clutch alignment tool?

[scorpydude]

No. is it important?

[want33s]

Not really needed.
Just run your fingers around the gap between the flywheel and pressure plate and make sure the clutch plate is centred then eyeball the clutch splines against the spigot bearing.

[ridzilla]

It's not critical but it is a smart thing to do if you're not confident, otherwise use a broom stick and file it down. Clutch has to be exactly centered.

[matfan]

Don't scare him like that!!

Don't worry about the tool, don't worry about the broom stick, sit your head up in the trans tunnel and just eye-ball it.

[scorpydude]

I found a good video on the topic, easy to understand. Will give it a shot!

[matfan]

I'm sure you'll manage just fine

[shoeboxer]

While you're down there inspect the lever that the clutch cable attaches to, they tend to crack at the end that goes onto the splined shaft but can be easily welded.