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Post Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:03 pm 
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Rusho wrote:
I'm assuming adding wet rags and the like will cool the housing to quickly, causing it to constrict prematurely. I think the norm is to let it cool 'naturally' for use of a better word.


Yep. Best to let the steel 'normalise', as slow as possible. This will reduce the internal stresses within the material.

For example, when you weld a diff centre, you wrap it in rags, then bury it in a bucket of sand so that it takes many hours to cool. ( or atleast thats how I do it :wink: )

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:09 pm 
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a lot of weld procedures call for post heat as well as preheat. reduces hydrogen cracking.

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31zook wrote:
Makes me want something similar

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:12 pm 
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This is also done on real big scale too.

At work they run a weld around the dozor wheel to 'pad' it back up again after it gets flattened/worn away by many hours of use. Then using hard facing wire subarc wire, they pick it up with a special crane, lifted over a bin and placed in it then sand is poured in ontop to keep the heat. Eventually it cools down, but takes ages.

One of the blokes reckons his seen a 1000mm Dia by 300mm wide cast wheel crack right in half because it wasn't put in sand.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:04 pm 
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31zook wrote:

One of the blokes reckons his seen a 1000mm Dia by 300mm wide cast wheel crack right in half because it wasn't put in sand.


Yeah cast is tricky. Fortunately I've had little to do with it.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:45 pm 
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I used to machine cast (durabar) its a strange material.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:32 am 
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to bump this back up. im looking to truss my front and rear diffs in a similar manner as below and as g-wags suggested. what sort of size material should i be looking at to make it strong enough.
note the diffs im looking at using are vitara rear housings.


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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:59 am 
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If you gusseted in the inside, I myself would use 3mm. Otherwise, 5-6mm.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 10:45 am 
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^X2

My Jimny front is 6mm cause the top link takes all the braking force, I didn't want it to twist the housing or to place the strain in just one spot.

My rear is 3mm

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 6:57 pm 
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I'd say 3mm, but go for 350mpa just to bump up the strength a little. Its only a LJ, so 5-6mm would be complete overkill.

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 8:23 am 
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what would you charge to do it pete? that way i know its done proper like

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