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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:03 pm |
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Rusho wrote: I'm assuming adding wet rags and the like will cool the housing to quickly, causing it to constrict prematurely. I think the norm is to let it cool 'naturally' for use of a better word. Yep. Best to let the steel 'normalise', as slow as possible. This will reduce the internal stresses within the material. For example, when you weld a diff centre, you wrap it in rags, then bury it in a bucket of sand so that it takes many hours to cool. ( or atleast thats how I do it  )
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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just_cruizin

az supporter
Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 2867 Location: here
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 Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:09 pm |
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a lot of weld procedures call for post heat as well as preheat. reduces hydrogen cracking.
_________________ greenzook89 wrote: 31zook wrote: Makes me want something similar
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31zook
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 9242 Location: maito
Vehicle: <3 Edna <3
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 Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:12 pm |
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This is also done on real big scale too.
At work they run a weld around the dozor wheel to 'pad' it back up again after it gets flattened/worn away by many hours of use. Then using hard facing wire subarc wire, they pick it up with a special crane, lifted over a bin and placed in it then sand is poured in ontop to keep the heat. Eventually it cools down, but takes ages.
One of the blokes reckons his seen a 1000mm Dia by 300mm wide cast wheel crack right in half because it wasn't put in sand.
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:04 pm |
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31zook wrote: One of the blokes reckons his seen a 1000mm Dia by 300mm wide cast wheel crack right in half because it wasn't put in sand.
Yeah cast is tricky. Fortunately I've had little to do with it.
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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KEENSY85
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 12:46 am Posts: 1742 Location: north brisbane
Vehicle: 1985 lwb sierra UTE
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 Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:45 pm |
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I used to machine cast (durabar) its a strange material.
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tanshi

az supporter
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 7717 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:32 am |
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to bump this back up. im looking to truss my front and rear diffs in a similar manner as below and as g-wags suggested. what sort of size material should i be looking at to make it strong enough. note the diffs im looking at using are vitara rear housings. 
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SierraDan

az supporter
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:55 pm Posts: 9348 Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny
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 Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:59 am |
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If you gusseted in the inside, I myself would use 3mm. Otherwise, 5-6mm.
_________________ mlm
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31zook
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 9242 Location: maito
Vehicle: <3 Edna <3
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 Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 10:45 am |
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^X2
My Jimny front is 6mm cause the top link takes all the braking force, I didn't want it to twist the housing or to place the strain in just one spot.
My rear is 3mm
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Fatzook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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 Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 6:57 pm |
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I'd say 3mm, but go for 350mpa just to bump up the strength a little. Its only a LJ, so 5-6mm would be complete overkill.
_________________ 2013 GV 1998 SV420 ute
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tanshi

az supporter
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 7717 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 8:23 am |
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what would you charge to do it pete? that way i know its done proper like
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