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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 12:48 am
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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 7:31 am 
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Hey all,

i had a search but nothing really came up, how well are the carby's on the 1990 Sierra's? i got the 1.3 engine and just wanting to know if imgoing to have to do some waterproofing on it to make it safe to go through big puddles

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 7:34 am 
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The carby isnt youre issue as long as you have a snorkel, its the distributor that gets moisture inside it causing engine to run like a dog, and the solid engine fan that hydraulics in the water killing youre power.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 7:40 am 
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PJ.zook wrote:
and the solid engine fan that hydraulics in the water killing youre power.


And it also chews the back of the radiator out.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:01 am 
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so in other words you can smack through some water, just dont bury it past the wheels in water?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:13 am 
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for your fan, if it electrically driven, install a switch so you can force the fan off when doing water crossings
for your distributor spray some good electrical waterproofing spray into prior to each crossing (once a day at most)

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:48 am 
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buy a pair of rubber gloves and cut the finger tips off one and place it over your distributor running the spark plug leads through the finger holes and cable tie them up nice and tight (don't mix the leads up though) this will prevent some drama's. Also i covered the starter motor with a couple of plastic bags, duct tape and cable ties to protect the solenoid.
I also used a heap of silicon on the air intake pipes to make them water tight and there can also be a hole on the underside of the carby hat that can be plugged also. Then coat the hell out of everything with crc.
hope this helps, worked for me and my underwater adventures in the past.
NOTE: if the charcoal canister fills up with water your car will run like crap too.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:53 am 
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try this... could be more fun http://beatlepress.files.wordpress.com/ ... 6-2006.jpg

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:52 am 
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wheelzie1989 wrote:
so in other words you can smack through some water, just dont bury it past the wheels in water?


No, "smacking through" water is never a good idea.

When driving though water you want to be nice and smooth. Build a steady bow wave in front of the car. This will actually result in very little water in the engine bay. If you go too fast you'll drive through the bow wave, pushing lots of water through the engine bay and it will build against the firewall, flooding the electrics (if not the intake itself)

Lots of revs will drown the electrics too - the fan will spray water all over the engine.

The sierra is quite well designed for water crossings - even the intake is in a smart spot, but you have to drive appropriately.

Using a radiator blind is a good idea too.

In bog holes, I roll in very gently in 1st or 2nd low so I can feel if the car is hanging up on the diffs or loosing traction. I can make a call then to back out or ease further in. In a worst case scenario, I should mean I'm not a car length in stuck on both diffs with a non-running car.

Like most things, the best technique is rarely very spectacular.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 1:20 pm 
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If you have to go through deep water... i was always told to tie a Tarp on the front... tie it under the bumper, then throw it back over the bonnet, tie it off, and away you go, easy... just try to keep a constant speed... :wink: :D

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 1:40 pm 
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Fitting an electric fan is good advice with a override cutout switch (just remember to switch it back ON!), if not just loosen the fan belt before entering the water. The plastic fan can easily propel through the water and the blades will bend forward and rip into the radiator. Your charge light might come on the dash, but you've more than enough battery charge to see you across.

I seal the dizzy cap with a length of bluetack, then clamp the cap back on.

Try to not change gears or slip the clutch as water can get on the clutch linings and make it slip. Remember after leaving the water your brakes (inc handbrake) will be less effective being wet. Drive a short distance with the brake slightly applied to dry them out.

And just in case water does get in the cabin, put non-waterproof stuff up as high as possible (your lunch, clothing, UHF radio).


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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 6:11 pm 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qr8eEWyKQHM&feature=email

How deep do you want to go?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:23 pm 
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That video is awesome... I start losing courage when water starts coming over the bonnet... not when my head is almost underwater.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 9:51 pm 
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303zuke wrote:
I seal the dizzy cap with a length of bluetack, then clamp the cap back on.


ahhaa, awesome :goodjob:

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:43 am 
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303zuke wrote:
Remember after leaving the water your brakes (inc handbrake) will be less effective being wet. Drive a short distance with the brake slightly applied to dry them out.

I nearly got run over by my own car on my first ever mud run :lol:
Pulled up on the other side of the bog hole, pulled on the hand brake and jumped out to watch everyone else. Next thing I know the car runs into my legs :oops:

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:43 pm 
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Number1 mod is extended breathers for your diffs etc
Without them your hot diff etc will cool rapidly and suck in all that great muddy water

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