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Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:30 am
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Location: qld

Post Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:34 am 
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joeblow wrote:
you're auto had a little more fluid than it should have. when you placed some decent load on it the excess oil came out through the breather for the 4 speed just above the bellhousing. get someone who knows electronic autos and knows how to fill them correctly and it will not be an issue again. atf can catch fire so be very carefull. you will find that now the auto has expelled its excess fluid it won't happen again. rear mains on a H20 do not spray oil like that.......auto breathers do.



The only thing is that the atf fluid is red and the leaking oil is browny black colour and its leaking down the bell housing and the back of the engine block and onto the cross member.

Ill definitely take it to an auto specialist as its been making a weird noise when kicking back from o/d (hard to explain.)

heres a pic looking between the bell housing and engine

thanks for the replys so far guys i appreciate it


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Post Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:40 am 
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behind the passenger side rocker cover is a rubber plug containing the line for the positive crankcase ventilation. check to see if that line has come off, but i've never seen one do that. more common is the auto breather to expell fluid.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:48 am 
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Funny enough i checked that today i thought it may be blocked and pressurising the crank case pushing the oil out.
I was blown away too see the oil when i had a look it didnt have 1 oil leak at the start of the day. Ill have another look tomorrow afternoon and try get some better pics the oil only started to leak out once it had warmed up and the oil was thinner.

There is no oil up high in the engine bay or on the fire wall and none on top of the bell housing either

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Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:30 pm
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Location: Perth
Vehicle: 2004 SQ625 GV

Post Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:13 am 
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I would say rear engine seal. Mine covered everything in oil like that when it went. It started leaking after a short hill climb. Your converter side of the flex plate will be clean but the engine side should be covered in oil.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:51 pm 
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Yeah I'm convinced it's the rear main now should I buy genuine or is aftermarket just as good

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:17 pm 
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I got a genuine seal from Suzistore for $80. Pretty easy to replace.

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Location: brisbane

Post Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:44 am 
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id go geniune i havnt had much luck with anything after market for a suzuki

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:54 am 
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tombutt wrote:
id go geniune i havnt had much luck with anything after market for a suzuki


x2

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:15 am 
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Suzistores price is 90 dollars plus post and Suzi sport springwood said 93 I'll see if I can get trade price through work thanks for the help guys

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:33 am 
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I spent another hour underneath the vit the sarvo cleaned it up again and let it run im am now 100% sure its the rear main now :cry:

As i have said thanks so much for the replys :goodjob: :youdaman: :cheers:

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:44 am 
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I got a start on doing the rear main today.

I got the:
exhaust off
transfer oil drained
auto fluid drained
and drive shafts out

Now for some more questions
Do i need to remove the autos sump because of the dipstick?
while im pulling the tansmission out should i service it? and is this a hard job?
What will an auto service kit be worth ?
is there anything else i should do while i have it apart?

thanks inbits

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 8:21 am 
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I have the exact same problem, oil leaks from above the sump and drips down to the exhaust and when that heats up she starts smoking! pretty embarassing when you rock up to a set of lights! MIDAS told me the engine had to be rebuilt so im not sure what the issue is, i hope its the rear main seeing thats cheaper than an engine rebuild!!

How did you go anyway inbits?

Any advise would be appreciated

thanks :)

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