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Post Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:50 pm 
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ive got the wide track diffs and thinking maybe i should go straight to hilux diffs how much harder would it be to put the lux diffs in and what would i need in the way of steering arms does anyone know how much wider the hilux diffs are to wt diffs

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:25 pm 
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Is it going to be road driven?? You are goin to have a hard time keeping the people who care off your back with them

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:51 pm 
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hilux = :(

widetrack = :D

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:04 pm 
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Rusho wrote:
You are goin to have a hard time keeping the people who care off your back with them


That's the first time I've heard them called that!

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:21 pm 
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2stroker wrote:
hilux = :(

widetrack = :D


:finger:

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:33 pm 
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it also comes down to what you want to do with her

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 10:44 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:
it also comes down to what you want to do with her

And what size tyres you plan on running. You can comfortably run 34's on beefed up WT diffs and a stretch 35's depending on the terrain and driving style.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 12:08 am 
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Red89 wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
it also comes down to what you want to do with her

And what size tyres you plan on running. You can comfortably run 34's on beefed up WT diffs and a stretch 35's depending on the terrain and driving style.

this being very true but we have big issues with wheel bearings down here on anything over a 31

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 12:15 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
Red89 wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
it also comes down to what you want to do with her

And what size tyres you plan on running. You can comfortably run 34's on beefed up WT diffs and a stretch 35's depending on the terrain and driving style.

this being very true but we have big issues with wheel bearings down here on anything over a 31


I truely believe that is because of your terrain, Lots of mud.

the more contaminent you push on the face of your seals, the more contaminents make it past and into the bearing. A 1 micron peice of dirt is enough to cause a bearing failure (a human hair is 6 microns wide).

weaves

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 12:38 am 
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Keep the gheyota parts away! Keep it all Zook :D

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 1:23 am 
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If you decide to go hilux diffs you'll almost certainly have to do SOA or link it.
I can help you out with a snake racing SOA steering arm for the passengers side hub.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 2:18 am 
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cheers lads i stayed with the wt diffs already got the back one in now for the front

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 2:32 am 
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weaves wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
Red89 wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
it also comes down to what you want to do with her

And what size tyres you plan on running. You can comfortably run 34's on beefed up WT diffs and a stretch 35's depending on the terrain and driving style.

this being very true but we have big issues with wheel bearings down here on anything over a 31


I truely believe that is because of your terrain, Lots of mud.

the more contaminent you push on the face of your seals, the more contaminents make it past and into the bearing. A 1 micron peice of dirt is enough to cause a bearing failure (a human hair is 6 microns wide).

weaves


yeah your proberbly right... can you get better seals?

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:25 am 
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with the sierra rear wheel bearing set up the oil seal does nothing to protect the bearing itself, so it comes down to the seal on the bearing and unfortunatly you have no options there.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:56 am 
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weaves wrote:
with the sierra rear wheel bearing set up the oil seal does nothing to protect the bearing itself, so it comes down to the seal on the bearing and unfortunatly you have no options there.


its actualy the front ones we have issues with.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:24 am 
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A) How often is "often"

B) When you rebuild them are you setting bearing preload by feel or by torque wrench? I found this makes a huge difference in how often they come loose. Torque wrench more than tripled my rebuild times. The procedure for using a torque wrench is in the FSM but it's not widely followed.

C) What is the condition of the seal surfaces on your spindles? Are they at all pitted? Are you changing the hub seal every time you do your bearings?

D) Are you sure you aren't also getting water in around the knuckle seals and/or the freewheeling hub seals, not just the hub seal?

E) Are you still running splash guards?

Sorry for the hijack- this is an interesting area.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:32 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
A) How often is "often" every 3-6 months in my old zook, i am about to put the first set in my coily, they are better i am led to beleve

B) When you rebuild them are you setting bearing preload by feel or by torque wrench? I found this makes a huge difference in how often they come loose. Torque wrench more than tripled my rebuild times. The procedure for using a torque wrench is in the FSM but it's not widely followed. i have always done them buy hand.. however i will look in2 this

C) What is the condition of the seal surfaces on your spindles? Are they at all pitted? Are you changing the hub seal every time you do your bearings? always checked this.. yep perfect and yep replaced

D) Are you sure you aren't also getting water in around the knuckle seals and/or the freewheeling hub seals, not just the hub seal? yeah i always 3bond mine back together not the crappy seals

E) Are you still running splash guards? as in scrapers? yeah

Sorry for the hijack- this is an interesting area.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:41 am 
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The torque wrench and the FSM are your friend.

However, I'd challenge that the coil bearing design is "better". I believe the locking ring design is better than the folded tab washer of the leaf hub, but the bearing spacing is, AFAIK, narrower on the coiler, so they shouldn't be as good at staying tight.

Might be swings and roundabouts.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:52 am 
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coily and vitara front bearings are a 'cassette' type. they are spaced back to back. they are not pre-loaded as leafy bearings are but are set to a factory torque on the locking collar.........i.e effen tight.

if you are running offset wheels with larger rubber there is no real benefit. the only good thing about vit bearings on the front is the plastic cage.....it actually reduces corrosion and wear.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:55 am 
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i am impressed in my coily bearings... only have a small amout of movment in them.. and only been pulled down once and re greesed...

one of my swivel pin bearings has however died....

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