[maddog]

how much extra width do i get? is it worth doing this or should i just get offset rims? are there any other benifits from doing the axles swap?

[ajsr]

near 4" wider from memory.
main advantage is you can run cromo cv's in the front.

[maddog]

so is it a staight swap or is there some fabrication required. if i get axles with centres are the compairable or do i need to swap the centres out?

[eldo]

hey maddog there is heaps of info on here about the swap, you need to weld the new NT spacing on to the WT diffs so you can bolt them on to your leaf springs, also swap a few other things over like flanges etc

[ajsr]

maddog wrote:

so is it a staight swap or is there some fabrication required. if i get axles with centres are the compairable or do i need to swap the centres out?

as eldo said no its not a straight swap, you need the fuul housings and welding/fab skills

[inbits]

Your best to stick with your current diff centers as they are 3.9 wide tracks are 3.7 this way you don't need to change the flanges.
The wide track spring perches need to be moved in about 40mm each
It is a worthwhile mod and if you are capable of fabricating it is easy you will also gain some more flex as the narrower spring spacing works easier with more leverage

[maddog]

fab skills are no problem been a motor body builder for over 20yrs its the other shit that has me worried, the problem (if you could call it that) with this forum is there is infomation over load, ive been reading for 3hrs and just thought someone who has done it could fill me in with one post. just like you guys did. thanks.

[eldo]

it is a pain in the arse searching sometimes, try searching through the build ups

[steak_knife]

eldo wrote:

it is a pain in the arse searching sometimes, try searching through the build ups

Bogfrog's build has pic's of the swap..

[steak_knife]

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=3676

here it is, good read..

I'd recommend new perch's to, having to cut the ole one's off to save em blow's goat's, much cleaner welding new on to, rather than trying to glue ole rust shit to the housing's...

[russty_2008]

i just finished mine and found it really easy just moved the perches in and redrilled the drive shaft flanges i kept the nt handbrake setup but u will need the steering arms off the front wt diff

[xedent]

I'm also doing this ATM just waiting on the purches from Fatzook, I have been told it's best to strip the diffs when welding to them as the old seals will probably leak from the heat.

[maddog]

xedent wrote:

I'm also doing this ATM just waiting on the purches from Fatzook, I have been told it's best to strip the diffs when welding to them as the old seals will probably leak from the heat.

how much did the purches cost?

[steak_knife]

maddog wrote:

xedent wrote:

I'm also doing this ATM just waiting on the purches from Fatzook, I have been told it's best to strip the diffs when welding to them as the old seals will probably leak from the heat.

how much did the purches cost?

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=13126

$89 with FREE postage..

[russty_2008]

i just used the old perches just had to reshape the front drivers side one

[russty_2008]

worth doing on my first trip out fealt so much stabler

[steak_knife]

russty_2008 wrote:

i just used the old perches just had to reshape the front drivers side one

If you have to save the old one's, sacrifice the n/t housing's buy cutting through em to get the perch's off, the n/t r/h is the one you mainly need as it sits on the pumpkin, this way you can just lop the w/t one's off..

Shitty pic, but you get my point, once off the housing's you can take your time picking the perch off.
It's not a 2hr job tho...

[xedent]

I get what you mean, I'm guessing that fatzooks kit are shaped for the pumpkin ?

I was a bit worried about that.

[steak_knife]

Yer one's a lil different to the rest, it's the front r/h one..

That pic is IF you are using the ole one's, & is the N/T housing, don't cut through the w/t housing's, cause if you do your up for new housing's....

[xedent]

I bought the purchases aswell because I wanted to keep the nt diffs just incase there is a problem with the wt ones.

[bazook]

fat zook just finished mine he is a good welder, and also doesn't charge the world to do them. As for gain I'm coming from spoa so I'm gaining stability

[Fatzook]

Thought I should comment.

3 of the 4 perches go straight on. The 4th ( one that sits up on the edge of the front diff pumpkin) will need slight grinding to suit the pinion angle you desire. It will take you a few minutes at best.

[maddog]

no one has comented on a different offset rim! or even wheel spacers to get the extra wheel track. is there a problem with getting it this way?

[steak_knife]

maddog wrote:

no one has comented on a different offset rim! or even wheel spacers to get the extra wheel track. is there a problem with getting it this way?

Yes, I ran 15x8 -28's on n/t diff's & the trye's scrubbed everywhere, have 15x7 at -15 with w/t's now & only scrub on almost full compression.
W/t on n/t spring spacing give's around 150mm extra wheel drop, honestly it's one of the best mod's apart from locker's, on road is improved to, well worth the effort put in..

[Fatzook]

maddog wrote:

no one has comented on a different offset rim! or even wheel spacers to get the extra wheel track. is there a problem with getting it this way?

With Wt diffs you can achieve greater flex, and have greater access to aftermarket upgrades like chromo CV's, without having to run bearing busting offset rims.

Personally I prefer WT diffs AND bearing buster rims, but I just like making work for myself

[xedent]

So wt diffs on nt spacing with ruf is the best ?

[Fatzook]

xedent wrote:

So wt diffs on nt spacing with ruf is the best ?

For a road driven zook it works well without compromising the handling too much.

IMO links and coilovers is the best, but we work with what we have