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Zoook
az supporter
Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 74 Location: Perth, WA
Vehicle: Jimny
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 Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:11 am |
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Probably a silly question but here it goes. When fitting a 2inch suspension lift do you jack up the body then support the diff. Or do you just jack up the diff then take the springs out ?
I have read the tech article but i am still a bit unsure.
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stewy91
az supporter
Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:16 am Posts: 287 Location: deception bay
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:15 am |
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support the diff and the body and only do one side at a time
Last edited by stewy91 on Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Teracis
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:03 pm Posts: 2261 Location: Gold Coast
Vehicle: Daisy
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:17 am |
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What keeps the car from falling over? the other three wheels?
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Fatzook
az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:22 am |
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Crack front wheel nuts.
Jack car up from chassis untill tyres leave the ground. (diff should be hanging)
Place jack stands under the chassis.
Release jack.
Remove wheels
Undo U-bolts, shackles and rear spring bolts.
Place jack on one side under the axle and take the weight of the diff. Remove old spring and replace. Put all the bolts etc back in, then remove the jack.
Do the same for the other side.
Tighten all that shit up
Replace wheels
remove from stands,
tighten wheel nuts
repeat at the other end. And chock the wheels before lifting.
_________________
2013 GV
1998 SV420 ute
Last edited by Fatzook on Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Zoook
az supporter
Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 74 Location: Perth, WA
Vehicle: Jimny
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:24 am |
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As quick as that thanks alot FatZook,
Last edited by Zoook on Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Teracis
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:03 pm Posts: 2261 Location: Gold Coast
Vehicle: Daisy
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:24 am |
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Fatzook wrote: Crack front wheel nuts.
Jack car up from chassis untill tyres leave the ground. (diff should be hanging)
Place jack stands under the chassis.
Release jack.
Remove wheels
Undo U-bolts, shackles and rear spring bolts.
Place jack on one side under the axle and take the weight of the diff. Remove old spring and replace. Put all the bolts etc back in, then remove the jack.
Do the same for the other side.
Tighten all that shit up
Replace wheels
remove from stands,
tighten wheel nuts
repeat at the other end. And chock the wheels before lifting.
This i what I was thinking!
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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:38 am |
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Fatzook wrote: Crack front wheel nuts.
Jack car up from chassis untill tyres leave the ground. (diff should be hanging)
Place jack stands under the chassis.
Release jack.
Remove wheels
Undo U-bolts, shackles and rear spring bolts.
Place jack on one side under the axle and take the weight of the diff. Remove old spring and replace. Put all the bolts etc back in, then remove the jack.
Do the same for the other side.
Tighten all that shit up
Replace wheels
remove from stands,
tighten wheel nuts
repeat at the other end. And chock the wheels before lifting.
i'm not questioning anything here fatzook, but trying to learn sth new. why removing the wheels is necessary? is it just easier to work or is there any other reason?
i don't remove wheels (have SPOA), but maybe i should  kris
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Teracis
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:03 pm Posts: 2261 Location: Gold Coast
Vehicle: Daisy
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:40 am |
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If you remove the wheels, you could work beside the vehicle way easier couldn't you, rather than having to get under it so far?
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Fatzook
az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:40 am |
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makes it easier to work on. (for SPUA)
SPOA.... 
_________________
2013 GV
1998 SV420 ute
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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:48 am |
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Fatzook wrote: makes it easier to work on. (for SPUA) SPOA.... very true, much more room to work when you remove wheels, i don't bother though.
yep SPOA, that's how i bought it, and didn't even know what that meant back than. i lowered my zook as much as i could, but it's to much hassle to swap all back over to SPUA now. i keep my springs as flat as possible.
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lump_a_charcoal
az supporter
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 4454 Location: Botany, NSW
Vehicle: MY2019 Jimny
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:20 pm |
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Also, retighten everything after your first drive, and recheck after a few hundred kms.
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whincup
az supporter
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 1588 Location: Gracemere, QLD
Vehicle: '94 suzuki maruti
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:30 pm |
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chris_mac wrote: i'm not questioning anything here fatzook, but trying to learn sth new. why removing the wheels is necessary? is it just easier to work or is there any other reason? i don't remove wheels (have SPOA), but maybe i should kris also thats quite a bit less weight you have to piss you off while trying to get the springs back in
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lump_a_charcoal
az supporter
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 4454 Location: Botany, NSW
Vehicle: MY2019 Jimny
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:56 pm |
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chris_mac wrote: Fatzook wrote: makes it easier to work on. (for SPUA) SPOA.... very true, much more room to work when you remove wheels, i don't bother though. yep SPOA, that's how i bought it, and didn't even know what that meant back than. i lowered my zook as much as i could, but it's to much hassle to swap all back over to SPUA now. i keep my springs as flat as possible. It might make moving/supporting the diff a bit easier by leaving the wheels on, but it limits access to the u bolts, etc. Not a problem for a skinny bugger like you, but for other guys it makes it way easier.
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