[SierraDan]

Ive got this adaptor that goes in line with the cooling system (hoses) to give a reading to my temp gauge.

Where would the best spot be for an accurate temp?
There's a good straight spot in between the bottom hose and the motor that would make it easy and reliable to fit, would that be a good option?





Cheers

[zooky08]

the hose from top tank to thermostat

[SierraDan]

hmm.. may have to find another hose that wont have kinks in it then.

[zooky08]

i could be wrong
i would just wait until some one else post to make sure

[SierraDan]

im not doing it till Saturday anyway, so ive got time
cheers

[abclarke]

I might need one of those seeing as my temp guage does sweet fa

[xedent]

It will only tell you the temperature of the water as it leaves the motor (when the thermostat opens) so if the thermostat seizes shut your motor could be cooking and you wont know, best to just replace the original temp sender with the one from the gauge you bought.

[whincup]

zooky08 wrote:

the hose from top tank to thermostat

this is the most reliable spot, as it will give you the temperature of the water coming straight from the engine. if its in the bottom hose, thats the water thats already been cooled by the radiator... as for the kinks, dont just cut the hose in half, cut about 2 inches of the hose out of the middle...

[SierraDan]

whincup wrote:

dont just cut the hose in half, cut about 2 inches of the hose out of the middle...

Nah, wasnt planning on it. Was going to cut out the size of the centre block. It just seems like it will interfere with the bends.

[whincup]

i havent got one myself yet, so i dont know for sure if it will, but yeah i imagine it probably would...

[Taylor74]

Dont waist your time on it. as xedent said if the thermistat jams shut your none the wiser. It might be cheap and that would be for a reason. why would anyone risk there engine to a 3rd party excuse of a gauge. rely on the factory made in japan thing, if its not reading correct fix it be much better than that after thought of a sender

[cairns27]

I'm on taylor74's side. I drive by my tempreture guage. It is the only thing I worry about till I'm home.

bye

[TheOtherLeft]

What about an engine block temp gauge instead? I figure if you lose all of your water your water temp won't get a reading whereas the engine temp will skyrocket.

[xedent]

Or you can just replace the engine temp sender with the one given to you with the gauge you bought.

[fordem]

xedent wrote:

Or you can just replace the engine temp sender with the one given to you with the gauge you bought.

Ahhh - every aftermarket gauge sender I've had was waay larger than the OEM temp sender - except my old BMC A series 850 - that didn't have a temperature gauge from the factory, so there was no sender.

[jonno_racing]

gti has 2 spots, one in the back of the head (where mine is) and one in the thermistat housing (where my factory gauge runs) is there more than one spot?

[mondo]

hey SIERRADAN, i've got a mate who needs something similiar to what you have pictured, where did you get this from?

[SierraDan]

Super cheap!

[mondo]

thanks mate

[cairns27]

If ya temp guage is not reading, it may be that the themostat has been removed.
I tried new sender, cluster, then took radiator cap off and started motor, no f'n thermostat.
Takes a full day, you'll need a spare car with a full tank of fuel.
Easy to do really.
Remove top raditor hose.
Break heads off bolts holding housing then get big screw driver and lever housing off. Use vice grips to remove the stud closest to the raditor, then break stud near carby off level with surface of manifold.
Drill and and stop using ezi-out just before it breaks.
Then remove those diapham thingys from side of carby, and drill and tap.
Replace everything using new bolts that will have 13mm heads.
You will need to drive back and forth to Coventry 4 times for new tools, as ya won't know the quality of the loose ezi-outs and taps ya have laying around.


bye

[cairns27]

If ya temp guage is not reading, it may be that the themostat has been removed.
I tried new sender, cluster, then took radiator cap off and started motor, no f'n thermostat.
Takes a full day, you'll need a spare car with a full tank of fuel.
Easy to do really.
Remove top raditor hose.
Break heads off bolts holding housing then get big screw driver and lever housing off. Use vice grips to remove the stud closest to the raditor, then break stud near carby off level with surface of manifold.
Drill and and stop using ezi-out just before it breaks.
Then remove those diapham thingys from side of carby, and drill and tap.
Replace everything using new bolts that will have 13mm heads.
You will need to drive back and forth to Coventry 4 times for new tools, as ya won't know the quality of the loose ezi-outs and taps ya have laying around.


bye