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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:45 am 
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Hiya fellas,

I'm after some left-handed drill bits... to go with my left handed screwdriver and elbow grease :blink:

I've snapped a bolt in my exhaust manifold and it's snapped below the level of the face so can't use vicegrips or weld a nut on. I know Ezyouts, extractors are the work of the devil so thought about using a left-handed drill bit might rotate the snapped bolt out. I was also thinking about using some Freeze & Release spray as well.

My interwebbing can't find any left-handed drill bits for sale and I don't want to try Blackwoods as they charge like wounded bulls.

Ebay hasn't delivered anything either.

Any ideas on where to buy them?

Cheers.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:48 am 
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these guys should have them in stock. http://www.kalecoauto.com/

before you completely fuck it, i would be calling captain thread or what ever he calls himself over there.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:49 am 
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either ezy outs, with some freeze spray sprayed onto the bolt.

or get in touch with your local "mobile bolt doctor" they will probably charge not much more than a quality LH drill bit

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:06 am 
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yep get a pro to do it, thats a crap break on a hard to move piece anyway (its probably seized in which is why it broke)

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 4:59 am 
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Seriously they have professional siezed bolt removers now?

I can see that as only being a job for a very very patient and calm person.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 5:03 am 
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Been around for a million years

its only hard if you dont know what you are doing and have cheap tools, these guys make your feeble attempts at removing stuff a cruel joke

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 5:10 am 
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royce wrote:
Been around for a million years

its only hard if you dont know what you are doing and have cheap tools, these guys make your feeble attempts at removing stuff a cruel joke


I generally just drill stuff out and tap it with a larger size. This is not always an option though!

Be interesting to see what kind of gear they use.

EDIT: Deleted my edited double post which was wrong...

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:06 am 
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royce wrote:
Been around for a million years

its only hard if you dont know what you are doing and have cheap tools, these guys make your feeble attempts at removing stuff a cruel joke


When you watch someone who has the knowledge, and tools, you will think, crikey, that was so easy.
Try it yourself and you will think, fuk me, why didn't I get someone who knows to do this.

For the few dollars, it is very cheap compared to what you can do, buy, stuff up, yourself.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:43 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
these guys should have them in stock. http://www.kalecoauto.com/


Wow thanks for that. I was nearly out of blinker fluid.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:51 am 
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Snap on make/sell em, but the chuck keep's coming undone while you try to drill, IMO not worth the coin & time...

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:57 am 
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TheOtherLeft wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
these guys should have them in stock. http://www.kalecoauto.com/


Wow thanks for that. I was nearly out of blinker fluid.

Check your muffler bearings too.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:03 am 
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I pulled my engine out on the weekend cos I could not get the starter motor bolt undone, the bolt rounded, I tried everything even welding something to it.

After engine out I drilled head of the bolt, once gearbox was removed the bolt came out with fingers, I thought WTF, after a month & trying everything it was finger tight in the thread,

could have been worse but!!!

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 9:19 am 
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royce wrote:
its only hard if you dont know what you are doing and have cheap tools, these guys make your feeble attempts at removing stuff a cruel joke


And those of us that know how to do it, hate people having a go first and making a HUGE mess. :x

It makes it so much harder to remove the broken bit and save the threads.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:18 am 
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And how do the professionals do it???

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:42 am 
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years of practice, the experience to know whats going to work from the start (generally once you stuff it your second go gets a whole lot faster) plus QUALITY gear

ive got a set of Snap on Extractors, they are the only ones ive ever used that work, they were $200 for a poxy little box of 10 and I have specific drill bits that are only used with them so I know they are always sharp but I wouldnt even think of using them on anything but the most straight forward job

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:44 am 
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is it snapped in the cast iron manifold?

if so drill easyout and a good warmup with an oxy it will nearly fall out

metal drilling tek screws work well too for getting things out, drill and tap the tip into the hole

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:49 am 
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TheOtherLeft wrote:
And how do the professionals do it???


secret fitter tricks :wink:

It all depends on the job. I have 2 different types of extractors, a die grinder with a tapered bit does a good job if you have to cut them out.

I look at the job and asses what I think would work based on experience.

Last resort is a spark eroder. As long as the part conducts electricity it doesn't stand a chance when you burn them out. With a bit of practise you punch the electrode through a shade under the tapping size for the thread and you can peel out the remains like a super thin helicoil. 8)

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:50 am 
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ajsr wrote:
is it snapped in the cast iron manifold?

if so drill easyout and a good warmup with an oxy it will nearly fall out

metal drilling tek screws work well too for getting things out, drill and tap the tip into the hole


not too hot though, I had to do one last Friday and the mechanic fused the edges of the stud to the manifold. Made for a bitch of a job.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:52 am 
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ball wrote:
ajsr wrote:
is it snapped in the cast iron manifold?

if so drill easyout and a good warmup with an oxy it will nearly fall out

metal drilling tek screws work well too for getting things out, drill and tap the tip into the hole


not too hot though, I had to do one last Friday and the mechanic fused the edges of the stud to the manifold. Made for a bitch of a job.


yes warm not welded :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:57 am 
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How about something like this?
Snap on

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:15 am 
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TheOtherLeft wrote:
How about something like this?
Snap on


These are one of the sets I have

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

Lucky they have a warranty, the smallest one was broken before the snap off dude was out of the street.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:23 am 
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ball wrote:
TheOtherLeft wrote:
How about something like this?
Snap on


These are one of the sets I have

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

Lucky they have a warranty, the smallest one was broken before the snap off dude was out of the street.


Whoa??? That just looks like a twisted cold chisel.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:35 am 
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Is the cylinder head ali? I had an rb20det that i pulled the exhaust manifold off, broke 5 studs below the head surface, i just built the stud up with staino rods 2.5mm (Using stick welder) then welded a nut too it.

I hit the cylinder head a couple of times inside the thread with the staino welding rods. Studs came out with a bit of fart arsing around. and then i just retapped the threads, good as new

If you feel competent give it a try otherwise spend the cash and get it done.

Is the engine in the vehicle? Or on the w/shop floor?

Conrad

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 12:08 pm 
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It's on the exhaust manifold and the hole/bolt in question just holds the heatshield on.

Since it's a non-critical component I want to try DIY first. More for curiosity then anything else.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 2:31 pm 
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Quote:
And those of us that know how to do it, hate people having a go first and making a HUGE mess.

It makes it so much harder to remove the broken bit and save the threads
.


For the slow playing at home. Read this, remember this and act acordingly.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 2:34 pm 
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i can see his next thread....






















How do I remove a broken Ezy Out of a broken exhaust stud.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 7:33 pm 
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kirstyandgrace wrote:
Quote:
And those of us that know how to do it, hate people having a go first and making a HUGE mess.

It makes it so much harder to remove the broken bit and save the threads
.


For the slow playing at home. Read this, remember this and act acordingly.


Also, if you make a mess of it at home, the pro who removes it will usually charge accordanly :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 10:30 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
i can see his next thread....






















How do I remove a broken Ezy Out of a broken exhaust stud.


Hey... at least I tried.

Considering I never said I was going to try Ezy Outs I can't see that being my next post. At least get your facts right numbnuts.

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