[303zuke]

zukmeista wrote:

Read The FACTORY Manual.

Correct, while "Read The F****d Manual" is a reference to the Haynes one.

Suzuki Factory Manuals are far superior to any of the aftermaket published ones for techinal information and step-by-step readability. They rarely leave anything out, which Haynes and Gregory's are notorious for. Best of all, the Factory ones for most Suzuki vehicles are available online or CD, where you usually have to shell out cash for a Haynes.

The Full Sierra one can be found via http://www.4x4.in.th/manual_sj413/chapter0.pdf for the menu, then just replace the required chapter number in the address. Just about all the other Suzuki ones can be found on Suzukiinfo or LJ10.com.

[mazdaspater]

So who uses a solid spacer? Is it just a bit of crap built by the diff guy, or is it the most important part of any diff rebuild?

[Hybrid]

I don't think the F stands for factory hehe.

[youda]

I have to do the same job on my 89 sierra, any pointers for a stubburn pinion bolt. mine wouldnt come off with a 1/2 inch rattle gun

[ramjet]

Well, I was having allot of trouble. My trade tools budget line air impact 1/2 inch gun couldn't do it. However, a mate brought his Ingersoll Rand air impact gun over, and it was like slicing though butter.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ingersoll-Ra ... 53ee653109

[jono165]

I have a cordless ryobi impact wrench that has no problem undoing pinion flange bolts, especially in places like the you pull it wreckers and cheaper than that ingersol rand impact wrench

[youda]

ok the 3/4 rattle gun failed. I did get it off in the end using a 3/4 breaker bar and driving the car forward. now i have a new problem.... getting the flange off

[mika]

undoing the pinion nut will be easy compared to crushing the crush sleeve if you replaced it with a new one. You will want a good breaker bar with a pipe over the end to get more leverage. Apperently it usually takes around 400 ft-lbs to start crushing the sleeve.