[VonDecoy]

I didn't hear a "No".

[Polar_Bear]

Get the best plywood you can afford. ....somthing with an A bond will be the strongest.

I scored a few sheets of 'boral' structural ply left over from a job years ago. Its been left outside for a couple of years and is still awesome.

The crap you get from bunnings on the other hand will look scond hand at the 1st sight of moisture.

Heres a good read....

http://sharpplywood.com.au/Facts-About- ... 17485.html


Oh, and anything made by sika is awesome. If ya paying more than 10 bucks for a sausage of sikaflex you are getting ripped. Bunnies screw ya for it, they want nearly 30 bucks a saus. I think I only pay 8.50+gst for it.

[christover1]

Thanks muchly, saved that.
Saw some sikas in my Bunnings, were $8;50 a sausage, but didn't look at them closely.

Getting some structural ply sheets from a mate for the sides.

I will need to decide on a floor, is plywood marked for easy (dumbo) identification?
I guess I can look for AS/NZS 2269 Type A Bond on them.

[christover1]

VonDecoy wrote:

I didn't hear a "No".

[sierrajim]

Maybe try all board distributors in bayswater

[christover1]

I finish up in Bayswater a lot.
Many good industries around there.

[christover1]

Decided steel was cheaper, lighter, stronger and thus a better option for the chassis extensions.
I got started on front, but ran out of day.

[got_bar_work]

here r some ideas to think about
-get a good epoxy paint to paint the ply inside and out and all cuts and skip the extra sheeting to save weight except for the front to take the rock strikes
-sika flex alloy angle inside and out and pop it on . It will allow it to flex and not tear its self apart . used seal riverts
-making a thin wall down the length of the trailer under the bed will allow thinner ply to be used on top with out it bowing
- go gbanger on the bed with a hole saw to save weight and let air up to the bottom of bed to stop mould and keep cooler
- a shelf above the feet will allow extra storage and give strength to the top
a lift up rear door will allow entry in the rain with out water getting in
u can get plastic hinge that is like a seal that is water proof when open.
make the door add strength when closed by using something like 4 tail gate pins that come through and turn. they can have pad locks put through them.

[christover1]

Love your thinking.
Pretty much decided not to skin anything.
Good paint be wiser.
And definitely will be alloying the corners.
Speed holes in a plywood sheet is a good idea.
I like the plastic hinge idea, will look into that.

[christover1]

Got a present of some A Bond structural ply, thankyou muchly mate .

Got started on the rear chassis extension.
The odd positioning of the the 2 outers, is to allow access to some bolts etc. for trailer maintenance.
And was the only way to support rear floor at its sides over a longer stretch.
And better flatness of floor, because my original chassis has 3mm step ups in it.

[christover1]

I have given thought to rear door set up.
Decided against a lift up, as I always hit my head on stuff like that.
Will have to duck a tad to get in.
Will have a clip on fly as an annexe,
Rear door will probably open sideways, and have knick knack shelves on it.
Won't be all the way across the back, want to leave room for lights and stuff,
plus it will give more support to the it all.

[christover1]

I will be putting a skin in the wheel arches, and the front of course.
And maybe under front a tad, too.

[Matthew]

There is a crappy looking GV in your garage, I'll come and get rid of it next Saturday

[christover1]

Matthew wrote:

There is a crappy looking GV in your garage, I'll come and get rid of it next Saturday

Excellent. Be nice to have me work bench back

[christover1]

Chassis extensions and floor supports all done.
After a rest, I will glue, screw and paint the bits of chassis that will be hard to get to.
I'll leave top of the chassis unpainted, ready for gluing on the floor.
It's too big to leave in front of my door now.
Will fit nicely in the garage, though.

[christover1]

Chassis extensions are all glued, screwed, etc. and ready for tar paint.
Need to fill/skin the inner guards first, though, then start on camper floor.

[christover1]

Was curious about uniboard plywood alternative sheets.
No painting, no rot and use normal wood tools.
I'll have to stick to ply and paint

Quote:

1. UNC01202412-01 1.000 290.29 290.29 29.03 319.32
UNIBOARD BLACK 12MM 2.44M X SH SH
1.22M
Freight: 40.00 4.00 44.00
Total Excl.GST $330.29
Total GST $33.03
______________
Total Incl.GST $363.32

[christover1]

Did the wheel arch skins today, took longer than I expected, but you tend to expect that.
Bitumen/tar paint for hard to reach chassis bits, before floor goes on is next job.
Floor will get a coat of tar underneath, too, after its laid.

[Built4thrashing]

Why not paint the base before it goes down. Then apply a second coat once its on to seal it to the base frame?

[christover1]

Had that thought, would make things easier,
but I was concerned that gluing down the base onto tar paint may not work well.
I am too clumsy to miss bits with the paint.
Will have to suck it up, and paint it from underneath.
Be glad to get away from the crawling/bending jobs.

[jonfromhamilton]

Tip it on its side and paint the underneath, it's a Zook so it will go over easy

[christover1]

jonfromhamilton wrote:

Tip it on its side and paint the underneath, it's a Zook so it will go over easy

That's how I did the original trailer.
May do that.
Tho it wasn't as easy as I expected.

[christover1]

Am researching plywood floor thicknesses and weights, trying to decide on 7mm 9mm 0r 12mm

[christover1]

Sometimes Ya win.
Had some left over Ormonoid tar paint from a previous job.
At the time I was grumbling about having to buy a big tin for a wee job.
But it was the perfect amount to do todays paint job.
Rest of tar paint will be after the floor is fitted.
Which will be when next dollars arrive.
As usual Princess wants in on the action

[christover1]

I tried the 7mm on the floor, definitely need to upsize to 9mm or 12mm.
Will use 7mm on the bed, sides and front, and may go thinner for the roof.

[jonfromhamilton]

You're making progress every day and doing me to shame Chris

[christover1]

jonfromhamilton wrote:

You're making progress every day and doing me to shame Chris

You have other commitments, that can slow things.
I have to stop working on it till next pay day now.

[Matthew]

And you are both putting me to shame with my progress

[christover1]

Built4thrashing wrote:

Why not paint the base before it goes down. Then apply a second coat once its on to seal it to the base frame?

Now my brain is working again.
I can fit up floor and mark out where not to put paint,
but that's also a good way to pre drill for screws.
Then seal it with 2nd coat.

[christover1]

Got a bit done today, thanks Steve and Neo for the tools loan.
It is amazing how much easier things are with good tools.
Thanks B4T for some surplus.
I cut the main shapes first, leaving the arches cuts undone.
Used the arches as a stencil for the cuts, as both are way different.
Stymied now till the floor is fitted = wait for pension day.
Resting and thinking time is always a good thing.