[sideways]

So when is the H27 going in?

[christover1]

sideways wrote:

So when is the H27 going in?

Or a 2.4 GV in my future

[sideways]

[christover1]

In my researching of vinyl/lino flooring it is starting to look like a bad idea.
Partly due to huge temperature changes causing warping.
And also sealing of edges to stop water getting underneath.
And still need to waterproof/paint the floor first anyway.
Adding up to more cost, fiddlier to fit and may not suffice for the job.

Coming up in the search a lot was decking paint.
Some come in one step paints, too.
This with a removable unfitted carpet is winning my thoughts now.

[missmyljdaze]

christover1 wrote:

In my researching of vinyl/lino flooring it is starting to look like a bad idea.

An option here- SIKAFLEX make a roofing membrane that you glue on- but join it with a heat gun.
[one side has a lower melting temp than the other]

looks like heavy vinyl, grey one side, off-white the other, fibreglass reinforced.
Being a roof membrane it is made to cope with expansion and contraction, heat, moisture etc.

Any moisture trapped between the plywood floor and the membrane can permeate up through the membrane- kinda like a one way valve, lessening any likelyhood of timber rotting from trapped moisture [very common in caravans]

I have a couple of rolls in my shed- however, getting it to you would be pricey- but if you contact your local Sikaflex distributor- they might be able to point you towards someone with some offcuts.

P.M. me a postal address and I will send you a sample.

stephen

[christover1]

Sounds like it is worth doing. Not now but maybe down the track sometime. Have already bought paint. No need for a sample but thanks.

[offroadjack]

We used sikaflex sealing refrigerated semi's.
Schmitz trailers are build using no fiberglass or rivets at all !!
All glued !!
We used sikaflex for sealing external walls

[christover1]

Excellent. Glad to know it won't fly apart on its first rough trip. Or 2nd

[christover1]

Was going to start painting the under floor bits so I could start cladding the front.
But leaving the back end hanging was starting to let the ply warp.
So I got started on back framing.

[christover1]

One thing I have learned during this project is,
I need an extension lead that knows what tool I'm using next
So many times I set up, hit the go button, and NOTHING

[Marko_SJ]

christover1 wrote:

One thing I have learned during this project is,
I need an extension lead that knows what tool I'm using next
So many times I set up, hit the go button, and NOTHING

Don't we all.

You are powering through this IMO.

[christover1]

Obsession helps

[Chop]

I can see most of that warping in your future! What thickness sheet are you putting up top? And are you putting any extra supprt for the roof sheet?

[kirstyandgrace]

christover1 wrote:

One thing I have learned during this project is,
I need an extension lead that knows what tool I'm using next
So many times I set up, hit the go button, and NOTHING

True story right there, add to the list tool power cords that don't need to
get close to their neighbor. Building my deck gave me the shits as my drill
and impact driver insisted on being cosy all the time.

As for warping, I think this may be a real concern as the side sheets of ply
are maybe too big to not have some bracing. Ply is a pretty good material with quite
good strength to weight qualities but large unsupported spans will probably warp.
It would be a shame to see your efforts undone because of a lack of extra bracing.

I could be completely wrong as I have never built such a thing.
The rule of thumb I work to when building (floors, walls and decks) is to have any
thinner material supported by a 450mm centre frame. Overkill perhaps.

Keep in mind that all of my building activities are renovations on property I own
and I am not a carpenter so I may actually know shit. Nothing I have ever built has
fallen down though.

Keep up the good work though, it is a pretty cool build.

And thanks to missmyljdays for the trailer info

[christover1]

Haven't decided on top of roof thickness yet.
Front 3 sections will be 7mm, but may drop to 5mm on top section.
Lighter up top could be wise, but only if I don't need extra bracing which could weigh more.
More framing is coming, I ran out of wood and money.
Any extra wall support or roof supports can be added later, just doing what needs doing at this stage.
If it needs extra support for the longer roof section, I have areas it can be fitted.
Leaving that till later, so as not to overbuild, and trying not to lose any width in bed area..

[royce]

Can you come build my shipping container house when you are done

I think you'll need to brace inside it quite a bit, just to hold up to being towed on rough surfaces, there is a lot of leverage in the roof flexing the sides and most teardrop plans have a frame that is then sheeted with wood.

As a bonus it gives you space to fit insulation.

[christover1]

Lots of framing going in. Won't finish till next lot of money comes in.
Just putting in what I can for now.
Roof is getting double skin with insulation.
Sides will be exposed framework with wallpaper maybe.

[christover1]

Finished the underbed supports, which are also load separating sections.
I left space under for easier cleaning.
Got some more framing done.

[kirstyandgrace]

Looking good.

And yeah, I hear you about the money thing, it all adds up.

I like what you are doing with this, and I am seriously considering it.

[kirstyandgrace]

Where's the update ?

I am getting very interested in this.

[christover1]

Got some more internal framing done, including some diagonal bracing,
until the wood, screws and glue ran out.
So got on with making the bed base bits, including speed holes, for air and lightness.

[christover1]

Got the underfloor painting done, thank goodness, that was harsh on knees and back
Bed base is now ready to fit, once paint is dry.

Have decided rear door will be an arch type shape, cut from the same panel used on rear section.
Should give a more accurate door fit, and better rear structural support.
Only need full width door at the bottom, so my fatter bits fit,
head will happily fit a smaller gap (Some/many/most would argue that)

[christover1]

Loosely fitted the bed base, as I needed it to crawl in through the front, to be able to stencil the rear door.
Measuring doesn't cut it, when nothing is ever real square.
Got as far as I could on the rear section and door.
Rest has to wait for more screws, glue and other pay day supplies.
May be able to paint inside while I wait, even though framing is not complete.

[zukenutter]

Wow! I want to build one of these, looks like fun. You've done a great job and thanks for all the photos. I'll enjoy the rest of this build.

[christover1]

zukenutter wrote:

Wow! I want to build one of these, looks like fun. You've done a great job and thanks for all the photos. I'll enjoy the rest of this build.

Thanks, I'd be excommunicated if I didn't do pix
Tidying garage up today, after mate moves his wreck.
Get reorganised for next few jobs.

[Matthew]

Chris has his garage back

Thanks again.

[christover1]

Dunno what to do with all the space, now, but guess it won't take long for me to mess it up.

[christover1]

Tomorrow I will start painting inside, that will keep me busy till pension day.

[christover1]

Matthew wrote:

Chris has his garage back

Used up the rest of the paint on the inside, not finshed, but its protected now.
Areas still need more framing, so painting inside is not finished anyway.
Worked out positions for lights.
There is 3 holes to fill, now, measured once instead of twice before drilling :-[
Managed to hide woops holes behind the light ;D

[christover1]

Santa came early, so I was able to go buy more stuff this arvo,
so I will getting onto the rest of the framing, gluin n screwin termorra